1949 Hamilton Todd: The Perfect "Small Vintage Watch?"

Picked this one up on eBay for a reasonable price a few months ago... already serviced, but came on a stretch gold band that I replaced with vintage pigskin.  I found a Hamilton buckle to match.

The Hamilton Todd features a very capable 748 movement and measures just 25.5 mm in diameter.  This one has been keeping time within seconds a day.  This is an interesting model which bridges the divide between tiny 1940's watches and the larger 1950's models that would replace them.

In 1949, the Todd was advertised to "Technicians and Doctors Alike" (presumably male)...

But by 1951, it was being advertised along with women's models, along with the "Dale" model (see bottom center for the "Todd"):

And in 1954, the "Todd" is featured under both "Watches for Men" as well as "Watches for Women" in a Hamilton catalogue:

There are reportedly 3 variations of this watch, with radium or stick hands and in both white and yellow gold.  I like how clean mine looks and how easily it tucks under a shirt sleeve:

1949 Hamilton "Todd", Caliber 748, 18 jewels

10K yellow gold filled case

Period pigskin strap and signed Hamilton buckle

Sunday Afternoon Drinks with a Vintage Oris

I'm not usually a fan of chrome plate on vintage watches because it usually doesn't age well... but this piece is an exception:  an Oris Caliber 60 tank in "Pure Nickel Chrome" (marked inside back cover) with a whopping 4 jewels from circa late 1940's.  I found the accompanying one-piece vintage nylon strap at a thrift store.  Measuring 24.5 x 37.4 mm without the crown, it wears quite well with the 17mm military-style strap and matching chrome buckle.

For a history on the Oris Watch Company, see here.

Oris Cal. 60, 4 jewels, Nickel Chrome Case, Black Dial

Fixed lugs with vintage nylon strap.  Circa late 1940's.

West End Watch Company "Secundus"

This is my newest eBay find. Gold filled, fixed lug case measures just 20.2 by 37.8 mm.   Signed three times--dial, movement and inside case back.  From what I can gather on Wikipedia the West End Watch Company sold pocket watches, and later wrist watches, in British colonial India and elsewhere in Asia, beginning in the late 1800's.  My grandfather was stationed in India during WWII with the British Army, but this watch probably predates his time there--from the style, looks to be early 1930's.  "Secundus" was apparently a much used model name that denoted the company's higher end line of watches.  The band is not original and was modified by me to fit the 13 mm wire lugs--I have yet to find a "go to" watch band for small wire lugs.  Even though this band is probably more 1940's-1950's vintage I think it looks okay.  Keeps time well and is comfortable on the wrist. 

West End Watch Co. "Secundus" c. 1930's 

20 micron rolled gold case, wire lugs, original radium dial and hands.

Snipe!

EBay auction sniping... Just tried Gixen and it seems to work very well.  Don't know if I'd trust it for that one-of-a-kind item you can't live without, but for little stuff...

 

Not a small watch, but vintage... with a very interesting history.

So before getting to some of the little 1930's and 40's pieces I named this blog for... we have what is now the largest watch in my collection, measuring a whopping 48 x 25 cm without the crown.  I'm a sucker for exploding Arabic numerals and this watch easily caught my eye.

It's powered by a generic Swiss movement in a .935 silver case with Swiss hallmarks, but what makes it really interesting is its provenance.  The inscription on the back reads "Gaetano Catalano Gonzaga," who apparently was an  Italian naval officer and Duke of Cirella, Majera and Grisolia.  He served in both World Wars and was reportedly close to King Vitorio Emanuele III.

The watch was purchased at an estate sale in California, with a note stating that it was a gift from a Ms. "Iris Geode" (spelling error or her stripper name?!), "to Gitano, who was married at the time."

It is fitted with what I believe to be its original band, which attaches from inside the case!  The "keeper" was missing, so its currently wearing a black lizard one that I had lying around.  The buckle has English hallmarks from 1917 in London and a "C.M." maker's mark, which may refer to a Charles Maas of London who made small items in silver (mostly tobacco pipes with silver decoration).  The band material appears to be synthetic, which would have to be rayon or acetate based on its age.  The buckle is firmly sewn into the band and although oversized, appears to be original.

On the dial is printed "Zino," but I could not find any reference to this brand/maker/jeweler.  The curved glass appears to also be original, as do the hands.  It was missing all four case screws, and the ones I temporarily replaced are too long.  Somebody previously made a mess of the case screw holes--there are scratches at all 4 points--and I suspect the originals were rusted solid.  Also, the crown is not original, but sooner or later I'll find one that matches.

I look forward to finding out more about this interesting piece--if you are reading this and have any clues, please post a comment!

c.1917 "Zino" Sterling Silver Watch with Exploded Dial and Original Band

Welcome!

Hi.  I collect vintage wristwatches.  Maybe you do too.  I started this blog to share pictures, stories and information about the kind of watches I like to collect, and hopefully spark interest in others for these tiny little machines that meant so much to generations before us.

Like many 30-somethings today, I saw rappers in the 90's wear big, flashy gold and silver wristwatches in music videos.  Most of us still wore a digital Casio back then, or maybe some "classy" quartz analog watch we picked up at the mall.  Soon, the ubiquity of cell phones with their built-in clocks made the wristwatch obsolete as a necessary tool.  If you were going to wear a watch, it was because you liked how it looked on your wrist, not because you needed it to keep your day on track.

Flash forward to the 2000's and 2010's, and many of us don't wear watches at all.  Those who do, opt for big pieces in the 38-48 + mm range (for men) because they want people to notice if they're going to take the trouble to put on a watch in the morning.  After all, you no longer need a watch to tell time!  Computers, cell phones, even your microwave--very few people are ever more than a glance away from a few blinking electronic digits.

And so... when I ordered my first (overpriced) vintage watch off of eBay--a 1940's Gruen "military" style piece--it seemed downright... girly!  Measuring a mere 32 mm in diameter, I was at first embarrassed to wear it.  And yet... it ran well, and kept time, and it was... old.  Who owned this?  What was their story?  What did they do in their lifetime, and how did this watch get to me?

It's been almost 5 years since that first watch, and I now count nearly 100 watches in my collection.  Most are from the 1920's, 30's, 40's, and early 50's--American and Swiss--and I wear a different watch nearly every day.  Safe to say, I have a habit (though my fiance would use the "A" word).

I find that the history, quality of craftsmanship and materials in these old watches keeps me coming back for more.  I love finding just the right band for a given watch, faithfully relying on it to mark the minutes and hours of my day, giving it the respect that I hope that its' original owner had for it in a time when most people could only afford one or two watches in a lifetime.

These are relics from another era--an era when useful items were repaired, not replaced.  I've especially come to admire the technologically advanced--for the time--little Art Deco watches that so easily slide under a shirt sleeve or jacket.  Early pre-WWII stainless steel watches and early "non-transitional" watches from the 20's are of particular of particular interest to me.  In an age when Michael Kors sells 38 mm made-in-China "boyfriend chronographs" to women, these little watches  look strange on a man's wrist, at least to the less informed among us.

But fashions change, while history stays the same.  Maybe small watches will be fashionable again for men.  Maybe not, but I'll be wearing one.

1940's Crawford 17 Jewels

Solid 10K Bezel, Stainless Back (I.D. Watch Case Co)

Radium Numerals, Sweep Second, Nylon Strap